FAQ

1. How much will it cost to stain my fence?
The price to stain a fence is based on square footage. Our prices ranged from at 42¢ to 68¢ depending on the
condition of the fence, how much hand staining, amount of prep work required and ease of accessibility. Free
estimates are available by clicking on the estimates tab.

2. Do you offer discounts?
Sometimes we are running specials to promote our business. Please ask!

3. How much will it cost to stain my deck?
The price to stain a deck is based on square footage. Our prices range from 60¢ to $1.60 depending on the
condition of the deck, how much hand staining, amount of prep work required and ease of accessibility.

4. Why does it cost less to stain my fence as opposed to my deck?
Deck stain is more expensive than Fence stain. Decks typically require more time preparation prior to staining.
This prevents accidental staining of other surfaces. Finally we saturate the deck with twice as much stain per
square foot than a fence. This increases the decks appearance and longevity of the stains rich color.

5. Can you stain my weathered fence and deck or will they need to be bleached or power
washed?
Older and unprotected wood can become grey, green or even black. This color change represents natural aging
of wood and the possible growth of mold, mildew, and/or algae. In order to achieve the best effect, the wood
surface area needs to be cleaned prior to applying stain.

6. Will the cleaners or stain kill my grass.
No. It is possible that the bleach and or stain will discolor the grass. The discoloration usually lasts about 2 to 3
weeks. Mowing your lawn afterward will minimize the discoloration of your grass.

7. If I am not ready for staining, are you willing to simply clean the wood?
Although we highly recommend staining after we clean, we would be more than happy to provide two separate
services at your request. On all of our estimates, the price for cleaning and staining are provided separately.

8. How long would it take to stain my fence or deck?
On a low wind day and few obstacles, the average 250' fence should take around three hours. If cleaning is
required, it will take an additional day for drying. On a hot day it's possible to clean in the morning and stain in
the evening. The average deck usually takes around two hours also depending on weather conditions and
preventive measures required prior to staining. This includes moving furniture, applying painters tape and
plastic to concrete, siding, windows and covering plants with cotton cloth. However, an additional day may also
be required if the deck also requires cleaning.

9. Does staining a fence or deck last forever?
No. However, Wood Defender® fence and deck stains lasts around five years. Wood Defender® fence semi
transparent fence stains have a 3 year guarantee with an expected 3 to 6 year life, while the transparent stain
has a 2 year guarantee with an expected 2 to 4 year life.

10. How does the stain work once applied?
By saturating the surface of the lumber, the catacomb nature of the wood allows the Wood Defender® product
to penetrate deep and uniformly throughout.

11. What happens after the warranty wears out and the fence needs restaining? Do I have
to strip it or can it be simply be restained?
Wood Defender™ stains modified oil formula enhances penetration and does not leave a surface film. The lack
of a film on the surface of the wood makes re-coats a easy. This characteristic eliminates the need for caustic
strippers or high-pressure power washing that can damage wood before a re-coat. In many circumstances if the
stain is in good condition, there will be absolutely no prep work required before a re-spray. The ease of recoats
allows us to establish a maintenance program of two to three years depending on the type of stain used.

12. What if stain gets on my house or windows?
No problem. Wood Defender™ stains wipe off most metal, glass and non-porous surfaces with a simple rag.
However, in an attempt to limit getting stain on surface areas not intended to be stained, our professionals will
assist in moving lawn furniture; cover or move plants; drench rocks and concrete surfaces in order to achieve
the best possible protection.
Should stain get on other than intended surfaces, our professionals will remove it using our specially formulated
Wood Defender™ EZ Clean. The cleaner was designed to remove overspray off windows, air conditioners,
gutters, brick, cars, garage doors and pool equipment. We take pride in knowing that our jobs and the area
around them are as clean or cleaner after we are finished.

13. What is in the Wood Defender™ stains you use?
Some of the materials that make up Wood Defender™ stains include:
o High quality, deep penetrating natural oils used to replenish and revive the composition of the wood.
o Highest quality trans-oxide and finely ground iron oxide pigments that lessen the damaging affect of harsh UV
rays while providing ample color choices for consumers.
o UV inhibitors to further lessen the effects of harmful UV rays and keep the color consistent through the
duration of the warranty.
o Synthetic resins designed to promote maximum adhesion and penetration to the wood while beautifying the
finished appearance of the wood structure.
o The latest available mildewcides and fungicides to repel the growth of harmful mildew and fungus spores that
decay wood and turn the fence gray in appearance.
o Water-repellent silicone to repel water, decreasing the damage associated with warping, swelling and cupping.
o Unique dispersants and anti-settling agents used to keep the product consistent in its container and lessen the
amount of stirring required prior to application High quality, deep penetrating natural oils used to replenish and
revive the composition of the wood.

14. What effect does colder temperatures have on staining?
Temperature has a large impact on consistent staining results. 50 degrees Fahrenheit is an industry standard
due to a long history of applying paints & coatings. Stains will work at 40 degrees Fahrenheit as well as 50
degrees Fahrenheit; however, higher temperatures provide better results. Temperature can be addressed in two
areas, the substrate (wood) and the stain (liquid).
When applying stain to a substrate (wood), situations of entrapped moisture, decreased penetration or poor
color development could occur. Since wood is a cellulose material made up of a "honey comb" matrix, the matrix
is very fine fiber (varies with species of wood) and can be swelled in the presence of moisture, causing it to
become more rigid (non-flexible) in colder temperatures. If the wood is cold and already filled with moisture (a
detriment), it is less likely to absorb another liquid "stain". Typically, the higher the substrates temperature the
greater the stain will penetrate. Penetration is important in the protection and preservation of wood, the greater
the penetration the longer protection and prevention of future inclusion of moisture/water.
All Liquids perform in varying degrees with temperature, like motor oil when heated up the thinner it becomes,
when cold the thicker it becomes. Stains perform very much in the same manner, the warmer it is the thinner it
becomes and the greater the opportunity for penetration which is the desired effect. In addition, the colder the
stain (liquid) the more problems can be associated with color development, which has everything to do with flow
and leveling of the stain (liquid). Additionally, some liquids in the stain, namely solvent and vehicle evaporate
more evenly at elevated temperatures as opposed to cooler temperatures causing drying/curing issues, taking
much longer to dry/cure in cooler temperatures that can also contribute to color development.

15. What's the difference between Transparent and Semi-Transparent?
Stain protection is accomplished mainly by three methods; pigment, vehicle and bio protection. These three
methods are the materials left on and in the wood and endure ongoing exposure to the elements, water,
temperature fluctuation and ultraviolet light. To effectively protect and preserve the wood from all the elements,
there has to be a comprehensive formula that works in a synergistic manner to refract ultra violet light, repel
water while allowing the wood to expand and contract and fight microorganism attack (mildew/fungus).
It is a proven fact that Semi-Transparent stains do hold up better than Transparent stains in harsh hot climate
areas due to their ability to better block U.V. sun light. The Semi-Transparent stains have a high pigment
loading as opposed to the Transparent stains, providing a "hiding" effect, thus the term Semi-Transparent.
Transparent stains use expensive Trans-Oxide pigments that have been known to block U.V. light as well and
allow for the "transparent" look, but have limitations due to the lower pigment loading and must be selective for
intended end use.
For example, when staining an older (aged) fence that has been weathered the Semi-Transparent stain functions
and looks better in appearance than the Transparent stain, by hiding all the discolorations and imperfections in
the wood, yielding a more uniform look. On the other hand, when staining a new clear cedar fence (selective) the
transparent will show the natural grain of the wood along with protecting the cedar from darkening or
discoloring.
In conclusion, both stains have their place and serve a purpose. The Semi-Transparent stain is more widely used
because of its "heavy duty" formula, offering a universal product for multiple uses, new and aged wood alike.
Transparent stains work well on fences that are intended to allow the natural wood grain to be highlighted;
however, re-applications will be required more often versus those that are stained using Semi-Transparent stain.
There are no shortcuts in staining wood the right way. Our professionals have been trained, have the right
equipment and are using great products with excellent guarantees. We are excited to work with you to make
your wood products last and look great.